
L'ASSO


L'ASSO





The Tribeca Drive-in is located at 200 Vesey Street (between Westside Hwy & Hudson River).
Pre-activities: 6:00-8:00 PM / Movie Screening: 8:15 PM

Ignazio's Just a stone's throw from Grimaldi's comes this pie contender courtesy of Hartford pizza maven Louis Termini (Luna Pizza). Aside from a selection of small plates (meatballs!) and salads (arugula with oil-cured olives and melted caciocavallo cheese), the menu is mostly devoted to thin-crust and Sicilian pies. Special versions include toppings such as lobster or seasonal greens, like baby dandelion and chicory. Drinks skew local, with Brooklyn brews (Sixpoint, Kelso, Brooklyn Brewery) and New York State wines—in case the East River views aren't enough to remind you of where you are.
4 Water St between Dock and Old Fulton Sts, Dumbo, Brooklyn (718-522-2100)
But [Lahey] could indeed improve upon his pizzas somewhat. Although the best of them are outstanding and all pack the pleasures of a serious crust with serious blisters — Mr. Lahey uses an oven that generates heat in excess of 900 degrees — he hasn’t yet nailed the toppings. It’s as if he’s too focused on, and maybe too confident about, what lies beneath. A pizzaiolo-come-lately, he needs to sweat the cheese and the rest of it a little more.
On some pizzas — the mushroom-bedecked boscaiola, for example — the advertised bufala mozzarella was barely discernible. The classic margherita pizza suffered from a deficit of just about everything: cheese, tomato, even basil leaves, rationed as if they were shavings of white truffle. Co.’s pizzas read different from the way they register, the menu touting twice as many toppings as actually make an impact.
Mr. Bruni and I agreed about many aspects of Co. In my review last month I wrote:By all means get the pizza bianca, along with ricotta for spreading and olive oil for dipping, though you’ll want to keep some of the bianca pristine. That’s how they eat it in Rome, where they sagely eat a great deal of it.
Get the creamy chicken liver, which comes on toasted bread.
But his favorite five pies differ from mine. Bruni writes:
I’d rank the top five regulars as follows: the popeye (spinach leaves with three cheeses); the ham and cheese (with first-rate prosciutto); the stracciatella (more densely cheesy than many other pies, with some arugula and crushed tomato); the flambé (rich and maybe a touch too sweet, courtesy of béchamel and caramelized onions) and the leek-and-sausage.
My favorite pie is the Flambe.
When all is said and done, I think Bruni gives Co. a fair and accurate write up. He is after all one of the most renowed food critics in the world. Who am I to break down a Frank Bruni anyway?
One of my biggest disappointments of the evening was the Motorino booth, which opted to give away samples of their chocolate, vanilla, and raspberry bomboloni instead of their signature pizza.
Another booth – Krispy Pizza – appeared to be a no show.
Overall, the evening was incredible, but the food closest to my heart – pizza – was underrepresented. You can check out some of my other photos from the evening here.
Some guys dream about making passionate love to a beautiful supermodel. Personally, I dream about digging my face into a mouth watering slice of New York City pizza. Fireworks are ignited. Music comes out of nowhere. And just like that, I’ve fallen in love once again.
I DREAM OF PIZZA chronicles my adventures in one of the world’s largest and most renowned pizza hubs. From reviews and recipes to obscure video clips and news articles, I DREAM OF PIZZA is your one stop shop for all things pizza.
Get in touch at thisisapizzablog@gmail.com.
Happy eating!
Jason